Altai travelling

I n the summer of 2011 we had the opportunity to visit the Altai. It was thanks to friends who have visited our ranch and rode there on horseback. Such an offer is it difficult to refuse. So after obtaining Russian visas're flying from Prague to Moscow and then on to Barnaul.

Barnaul is the capital city of the Altai Republic. Crossed by great rivers Ob, powered Cujo, Katun and the many tributaries of the Altai Mountains.

At the airport we were greeted by symphatic guide, named Ezen. He is the brother of the wife of one of our friends.

Then we went to Gorno-Altajsk. It is a gateway to the Altai. In cities will be executed visas and Ezen our expedition supplies groceries and vegetables from his own resources. Our base was in the willage Boči in a house after Ezen´s parents.

During the way we have bad luck. Auto strike begins, swim along the way and heard the strange sounds ... Fortunately, the defect was soon discovered. Wheel held only on two free srcews. After successful repair, we arrived in our village. Along the way I bought warm bread in the bakery and barbecue for dinner.

The morning ceremony began borrowing horses, saddles and bags. Horses us gradually paraded farmers themselves and each extolling the virtues of its horses.

Gray horse fell on me what he missed tips of ears. When asked what had happened to him, the owner innocently replied with a smile that he is personally contracted to him without any problem found in the herd. This was not to say.

Then came a selection of saddles. All had short stirrup leathers, which already bore extended (Altaj men have short legs). We had to replace belts ropes.

After completing the entire outfit and tacking us we were ready to go for a test drive. Who had the happiness found in a barn the sheepskin seat to improve the seddle seat.

We drove about 10 km around the village. Comments regarding saddles were endless but the horse no one could complain about, slower one but reliable.

In the morning we packed for the trip. Tents, sleeping bags, cookware, canned goods, potatoes, bread, and it all came in huge bags for each seat. Joined us as a local hunter, so we have an armed escort.

Climb up into the hills, we pass the camp to harvest pine nuts and slowly look around for a suitable campsite. When unpacking the camp I spooked a deer. That was the signal for hunters who followed him immediately released. He returned empty-handed, so the potatoes were without meat only with canned food.

The night was very cold and foggy. So after breakfast thawed up in the seats at the morning sun. After leaving the plateau at an altitude of about so our "Sněžka" opened a beautiful view. Continue plain over ridges and valleys to the beautiful lake among the crags and pines, where we camped.

This camp we called "infirmary". Iva because of previous cold night was properly cold and inflammation of the urinary bladder. From Paul's animated small scratches from the saddle turned out to be a big "Siberian wolf." Iva was given antibiotics and for Paul she cooked fellows who have fortunately grown everywhere.

The expedition on the second day smaller because of sick friends our caregiver Ezen brought us out on a tour along the ridges around the lake. We met a herd of horses and admire the magnificent views of the vast area of mountains and plateaus, where we occasionally saw movement grazing herds. May be is the same as in the days of Genghis Khan.

We return along slopes of one of the valley through which flows a stream fed from many tributaries and springs. Everywhere there is enough clean water. We drank it, where we thought. The camp was better mood, the sick were better, even fish. But three goldfish were so just to taste. It's raining so we return to base.

There Ezen melted Banya sauna and bath and cleansing took place in steam. Mine works so that in the low cabin melt homemade stoves made of sheet metal in which water is boiled, here you are taking and what you mix with cold. The steam is produced by pouring water flows to stove. Superfluous water went out by joints in the floor. Bath terminate the bucket of cold water.

The second day in the village was shopping and relaxing. Especially being repaired saddles. After the first outing everyone knew where it pushes the butt. Then in the evening we walked around the village, we visited old graves Scythians, called Kurgan. Graves are several thousands years old. Výška Kurgan was directly proportional to the rank or position of the warrior.

Among Kurgan we went to the selected stone crater. Ezen then told us that it is open grave of Scythian princess. All Scythian tomb relics and artifacts are stored in the museum intact, as in a tomb got water and ice conserved them. Next morning we packed everything and went to the next heading into the mountains.

From 1000 m beginning to summer pastures. Often we pass dilapidated Ajly - habitations of shepherds over a hundred years old. Among pine trees dominate the most powerful and bruises that are incredibly pitchwood.

We drive through pastures and clearings with trees felled timber. Our repaired saddles seem to be better, or we have become accustomed.

Today it is getting dark and somehow faster the wind blows. We saddled off horses and built tents. Short time we looked to the orange sky with silhouttes larches and black clouds. Violent storm then ended the day.

Morning without rain, horses and we survived the storm unscathed, so we pack up, saddled and then climb still higher.

Today's goal is to reach summer pastures that use Ezen friends from the village. The climb is steep, trees hanging shreds of lichens and how it looks in a mysterious forest. During the day alternates the fog, rain and sun.

Climb to the plateau and now ew have the opportunity to see enormous space around us. Part of it is illuminated by the sun, somewhere you can see streaks of rain and the storm in the distance, which is so far away, that does not concern us. After a while we dicovered the amount of eagles and kites circling above one place. Several of us went to investigate. It was torn cow, probably by a bear and predators feasted on the remains. Returning then brags amount of eagle feathers.

We met two riders herding horses from somewhere to somewhere. Then we see the sheep and the fence where the closing night. Next to it is a small hut ( dwelling for herders). We have about 2000 meters above sea level. It is blue, the sun is shining but one hour after the dinner by the fire we are looking for warm clothes.

Morning frost on the tents, at breakfast is a big fire and we are close to fire. When the frost continues our caravan go up into mountain pass to the next mountain range. After passing through the mountain saddle, we consider the stone to the pyramid as every pilgrim to thank you for a happy passage through the mountain saddle. Above we see new horizons. On all sides are only valleys and mountain peaks. No way just boulders, gravel and snow on the slopes last year. We are in 2500m high.

Continue slowly to a group of rocky peaks called "Ičenmeg". It looks like a sharp ridge dinosaur. On the opposite side is a glacier covered with a layer marking the Mongolian side of the Altai.

To the south is the highest mountain Beluga (4506 m). We descend into the valley, where in September several lakes connected by waterfalls. That was our goal today. After the steep slopes we build our camp, cook soup, the rest of the day we want to take advantage of exploring lakes and waterfalls.

At the camp, leaving only Paul who acquires new strength after a successful battle with his "Siberian wolf".

The road to the lakes of the beginning seemed to be just a walk, but it turned into a pretty difficult climb. All around us grew full of colorful flowers and moss, under boulders and rock debris was often hear running water. The top lake fed from the ice we had a bath for a several seconds because after ten swimming meters the body begins to solidify and stabs by thousands of needles. On the way back we saw by the one of the lakes saw wolf tracks.

In the morning we pack up camp and hunt some more photos in an oblique morning sun. Horses again struggled to rise, then turn the stones glide down. The journey here is just the signs. On this area was spotted snow leopard and wolverine is here too populated. On one of the slopes Ezen looking long time at the landscape and to our the question "Što slučilos?" He responds with a smile that he went here recently with his dad ten years ago and thinks that "na pravo budět charašo". His answer was not so soothing. A few hours going through the forest burned, which has set off new trees. In the valley wading through quite an adrenaline ford, but everyone made it without incident. Our last camp is at the river-side on the clearing near the abandoned Ajlu. Glade is interesting that, stumps are high 80 cm - 1 m. Some local custom or it follows the Altai sport - lifting a round boulder weighing about 80 kg per tree stump. It has its precise rules, such as time, style and grip. It's not easy, but the three of us above stone prevailed even when no rules. River valley is the village's only a few hours the horse feels home and perked up. In one short gallop Jenda leaves horses. He holds his hand and says "It will be good" but it is not. Hand swollen and hurts at home, so we made the plate and in the morning to the hospital. It is about 60 km to the nearest one. Ezen buys a bottle of vodka as a ticket, but we have bad luck at the hospital just paints. Finally we finded the doctor dressed in green, she is willing to do an x-ray. X-ray behind the lead plate is Russian, gypsum fracture is American and scarf for fixation is Czech.

After the hospital we went back borrowed horses owners. It was just in time, because he started haymaking. So poors did not have time to unwind after our trip. On the next two days, we planned a trip to the Mongolian border by car. Just Čertan wanted to ride a horse but was outvoted without success. Went away to the southeast. This direction is only one asphalt "high way", it is called Čujsk tract. It is lined with electric poles of various tilt. The road follows the river Katun in practice, then its tributary Čuja to the town of Kosh - Agach. It is a high altitude area with many rivers and streams, often interconnected lakes. It is a pastoral region. You can see goats, sheep, cattle and horses. Around the same numerical representation. The population there is already largely Kazachšské.

On the way back we camp by the river, Čuja. The whole river valley is flanked by high mountains with white peaks. On the rocks there may appear Pertoglify sculpted and carved into rock walls. They are thousands of years old ancient peoples messages traveling Altaj. There then continue along the Čuja river stands by to the confluence with the Katun river, which flows from the southwest. From the mountains milky Čuja river mixes with clean Katun. Together they form the mighty mountain river that is a paradise for rafters.

Leaving Čuja tract and spend last night at Boča. Thus we end our journey in the Altai. We spent a memorable 250 km in the saddle on the Altai skilful horces. By car we rode about 1500 km.

Tired but full of impressions and memories we leave the Altai Republic from the airport in Barnoul.